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Dutch Process Cocoa Information

This is an excerpt from what author Dave Lieberman wrote in the September 2008 issue (#113) of Saveur Magazine:

"We knew that the use of cocoa was likely to produce a more concentrated chocolate flavor, but, after making a few batches of brownies using different kinds, we noticed that all cocoas are not created equal. Most are labeled either "natural" or "dutch process". What's the difference? Unlike natural cocoa, the dutch-process variety is made from cacao beans that have been treated with an alkaline substance, usually potassium carbonate, which reduces their natural acidity. The method, called dutching, was introduced in 1828 by a Dutch chemist named Coenraad Johannes van Houten. By reducing cacao's acidity, dutching eliminates the sharpness that can overwhelm other aspects of the cocoa's flavor. It also promotes a type of chemical bonding that forms dark pigments, which, in turn, yield a deeper-colored powder. Sure enough, the brownies made with the dutch-process cocoa were darker and had not only a richer, smoother chocolate taste but also a denser texture; that's because a batter with lower acidity doesn't set the egg and flour proteins as firmly as one made with natural cocoa. So, if dark and fudgy is the way you like your brownies, go dutch."

--Dave Lieberman

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